Mirwood Ranger Handbook
Introduction The Westridge Ranger Handbook is a written guide book used by the Ranger Order of Westridge as a resource for both ranger-apprentices and fledged rangers. Through the creation of the Order and its many incarnations, such knowledge was usually restricted through oral tradition and hands-on training. In the most recent reemergence of the Order, several texts were introduced to Oakhall Sanctuary to aid in training and to ensure the continuation of the ranger lifestyle through the ages. Credits and Special Mentions: * Caiterina Stonewall, Ranger Lady of Westridge. * Brandon Hood, Ranger Knight of Westridge. * Thomas Reignsford, Ranger Knight of Westridge. * Grayloth Ke'tar, Ranger Knight of Westridge. * Piper Cohen, Ranger of Westridge. Chapters The ranger handbook is divided into several Chapters. Texts that supplement the book have been gradually adapted as additional sections. These chapters and additional works will be listed below. Westridge Ranger Handbook * History, Structure, & Ethos * Animal Tracking * Wilderness Survival * Animal Companions * Ranger Communication * Ranger Tactics * Ranger Equipment Other Materials * Mirwood Ranger Handbook Animal Tracking Introduction As a ranger, the ability to accurately identify and track animals is an essential one. This chapter of the Westridge Ranger Handbook shall give an overview on how to track a variety of animals. Such a skill is utilized in almost every facet of a ranger's duties, and it is only with constant practice can it be mastered. Remember, tracking and observation are one, and the ground itself is a manuscript. Identifying Tracks No two tracks or sets or tracks are the same. Each one is as unique as a human thumbprint. Still, there are similarities in track shapes and patterns that make it easy to classify into family groupings. You will also have to know a little about how the animal lives, whether it is found in your area, and what it might be doing there. To read and follow any track you will also have to be familiar with an animal's movements and the motivations behind them. Toes, Claws, and Shapes Counting the numbers of toes and claws is one of the most useful things you can do when you come across a clear track in mud, sand, or soft soil. This information is often enough to place the track in a given family. You can usually identify the species by analyzing the track's shape and size. Gaits and Patterns Most of the time you will find tracks that were made by animals moving at a normal slow rate of speed, but there are four different "slow" gaits and each one leaves a characteristic track pattern. It is critical to learn these gaits for tracking identification. The following are the four primary gaits that animals use as their normal slow rate of speed. * Diagonal Walkers * Pacers * Bounders * Gallopers Animal Tracks and Habits The tracks in this section represent "average" track sizes, strides, and other measurements. These numbers will greatly vary with the animal and the terrain. The habits mentioned are meant to give general familiarity with some of the representative members of each animal grouping. The Cat Family Members of the cat family show four toes up front and four in the rear - without claws - and when they walk directly register. Cats are diagonal walkers and can trot, bound, lope, and gallop as they increase speed. They tend to go directly from a walk to a gallop. When hunting game, they usually bound before the during the last few strides before a kill, and pace when threatening. Cats are very stealthy and excellent hunters, almost exclusively carnivorous, and have fairly large territories. They also like to scratch trees and occasionally chew on herbaceous plants. Cats are also primarily nocturnal but can be seen through the day. They prefer to hole up in rock caves, hollow logs, trees and push piles. You can see often find cat hair on trees, but seldom on or near the ground since they are very careful walkers. Most cats are best seen in the evening or early morning when leaving or returning from a hunt. The Dog Family Members of the dog family show four toes up front and four in the rear, usually with visible claw marks. Only foxes have tracks that directly register, and all dogs are diagonal walkers, though some prefer to trot. On difficult terrain, they bound, gallop at high speeds, pace when threatening, and slow walk when stalking. Like cats, dogs are predators and primarily carnivorous, though they do eat some vegetable matter. Dogs hunt in singly, in pairs, or in packs, depending on the species and time of year. Their territories range from a few square miles for a fox to a hundred or more square miles for a wolf. Dogs don't usually maintain permanent dens unless they are mating, and usually rely on temporary bedding areas with protection provided by brush, rocks, or logs. The Rabbit Family Members of the rabbit family all show four toes up front and four in the rear and have relatively enormous hind feet. Though rabbits and hares are primarily gallopers, they sometimes bound on difficult terrain. They also diagonal walk or slow walk when sneaking and pace when threatening. Hares travel in a straight line while rabbits like to zigzig but both with zigzag when chased by a predator. Be prepared for variations in stride. Rabbits and hares feed on grasses and leafy vegetation in the summer, and their home range is about 10 acres. Cottontails prefer thick tangles of brush, while hares and jackrabbits prefer open fields. Rabbits also dig, and have well-defined trails and runs leading to bedding and feeding areas. The Rodent Family Rodents include many diverse families and hundreds of species. Some of the more common are voles, mice, rats, chipmunks, squirrels, woodchucks, muskrats, and beavers. They have a four and five-toe configuration and a usually galloping gait. They also bound on difficult terrain, pace when threatening, and slow walk when stalking. Rodent tracks vary greatly in size and it can be difficult to determine the species from a single track, especially with smaller rodents. In such cases, concentrate on patterns. The typical gait pattern is a wide U or V shape, and you can often determine the species by measuring trail width and stride, combining this knowledge with habits. The Bear Family Bears are large, chunky carnivores that put on tremendous weight before hibernation. They are rampantly omnivorous, eating grasses, buds, leaves, bark, roots, berries, birds, mice, rats, fawns, carrion, and fish - to name a few. Grizzly bear diets also include salmon and the occasional deer or elk. The black bear is usually solitary and nocturnal, though it does show up during the day. It dens in rock caves, hollow logs, and in excavations beneath fallen trees and ranges from 2 to 15 miles. Grizzly bears forage any time, night and day, denning in hillside excavations. It ranges from 25 to 50 miles, following the same trails over and over. Bear signs are numerous and obvious. Their tracks are easily seen, even on difficult terrain. The Deer Family Members of the deer family are diagonal walkers and their heart-shaped tracks are easy to identify and follow. When combined with stride measurements and habits, deer tracks provide fairly definite species identification. Deer also trot, bound, lope, and gallop. They pace when threatening and use slow walk when stalking and feeding. Most deer also have dewclaws - two sharp projections above each hoof that registers in mud or sand or when the animal is running. The below measurements do not include the dewclaws. Animal Highways and Signs While tracks can be identified by foot shape, size, and pattern, there are many other animal signs - some large and some small - that are equally diagnostics. Finding and reading these signs are as important as recognizing individual footprints. Large-Scale Signs * Trails * Runs * Pushdowns, Escape Routes, and Hides * Beds and Lays Medium-Scale Signs * Rubs and Nicks * Scratches * Gnawings and Bitings * Signs on Twigs, Stick, and Logs * Upper Vegetation Disturbances * Scat Small-Scale Signs * Hairs * Stone Disturbances * Leaf Disturbances * Compressions * Shinings * Dullings Important Things to Remember Below are several helpful hints, aids, and procedures for reading and following tracks in the field. • Lighting - Early morning and late afternoon are the best times for tracking because of the long shadows the sun casts. Mid-day hours are the worst because the sun is directly overhead and leaves little or no shadow. • Angle of Vision - When looking for a single track, the best way to observe is by getting low to the ground, keeping the track between you and the source of light. As you learn to track, you will find yourself spending many hours on your hands and knees, with your eyes only inches from the ground. • Sideheading - When having to read faint tracks, get down to your hands and knees and lower the side of your head to the ground. Close your top eye while looking at the track with your bottom eye; this helps emphasize compression irregularities and shadows. • Varied Vision - Vary your vision while tracking by backing up and looking for patterns and shadows. If you lose sight of a faint track, allow your eyes go splatter-vision for a moment and then refocus them. Look up often to see how a track fits into the landscape. • Thumb Aging - To quickly check the age of a track, push your thumb into the ground next to it and compare the fresh thumbprint with the track. • All Senses - Make sure to use all your senses while tracking. Listen to the sound around you, sniff the air for scents, absorb information through your skin and fingertips. Your whole body is a receptor for information. • Movement - Quietly stalk if the track is fresh and you think the animal is nearby. If not, either weasel walk or folk walk. Slow, soundless movement is the least threatening to wildlife and you can observe animals if you blend in with the flow of the woods. • Left-Right - Never step on the tracks when following a trail. Vary your vision and stay on the said that is most convenient for you. • Concentration - Don't talk or make noise while you're tracking. You'll scare the wildlife and break your concentration. You must be completely focused, free from distractions. • Attunement - Shut down internal dialog, and take your time to open yourself up to deeper levels of awareness. Trust your instinct; hunches and first impressions are usually the best. Wilderness Survival Introduction This chapter of the Westridge Ranger Handbook focuses on basic survival skills and information needed to face the challenges of the wilderness. The information here concerns both short-term and long-terms situations. Though the circumstances of wilderness survival may vary, the essentials necessary to be successful in preserving one’s life and health is the same. The following guide will cover these basic essentials and include supplemental information to help with the process of survivability. Your Pack When staying alone in the wilderness, you must be a self-contained unit and carry all you need on your back and on your person - everything necessary to sustain you. Bedrolls You will need two wool blankets - one large and one smaller. Fold the larger blanket in half with the smaller one folded in half on top of this. To this you should add elements of your kits that you don't immediately need, as they will be confined to this roll until you set up camp. Spare clothing and dry tinder are great things to put inside for safe keeping! Once the roll is laid out, fold a 12 feet piece of rope in half and place it at the end of the roll. Roll the rope up into the bedroll. A loop will extend from one side, and the two tails of the rope will extend from the other side. Fee these tails through the loop and tie them off. Fold your tarp around the roll, strap the roll together with two pieces of rope around the outside, and knot them off. Now your bedroll is ready to attach to a pack frame! Pack Frames Pack frames can be used as a standalone item or combined with other items. An improvised frame can be constructed in minutes from easily-obtained materials while lasting many years if the lashings are strong and the wood selection is sound. To create a pack frame, first find and cut three components from a single hardwood sapling, and lash them together as such: 1.) Split a piece of hardwood about 2 inches wider than the length of your armpit to your wrist. This will be the lumbar slat. 2.) Cut 2 pieces 1-1½ times the length of your arm, from your armpit to your outstretched fingertips. 3.) Lash the longer components about 1 inch from the ends of the lumbar slat, then cross and diagonal lash them about 4 inches from the top to create a triangle. 4.) Make 7 or so toggle points for tying gear to the frame. 5.) Create a strap for the frame with a long single piece of rope by making a knot passing through the top X of the frame. Then wrap the rope around the “ears” of the lumbar piece. Tie around your waist to secure. To pack this frame, lash your “bedroll” to the frame using rope in an X fashion, and tie it off with a knot before adding the straps and wearing the pack. Pack Basket Pack baskets are generally made from woven wood and drain well if you put anything in it that is wet. In these packs you can carry metal traps, trap tools, and other gear without puncturing your canvas or other pack materials. If you combine a canvas pack, an inner bag, and a pack basket, you can have three different carrying options as one unit. You can set camp, remove the inner bag containing camp gear, remove the trap basket and put it on a line while camped, and have the empty canvas pack to carry resources for short scouts. Haversack A haversack is a small bag carried on one side of the body. The sizes vary and are a matter of personal preference. They are usually made of cloth, leather, oilcloth, or canvas. This bag should be used to carry items that are of immediate importance or for items collected along the journey. Do not over stuff this bag! You need room to store material you find on the trail - like quick tinder sources. Belt Pouches Belt pouches are usually made of leather and are where you keep your main fire kit and a spare carving knife. Carry the most important items you need in these pouches, especially if you left everything behind at camp or lose your supplies. Sample Carry Kit Belt * Sheath knife * Waterskin * Small hatchet Belt Pouch(es) * Flint and steel * Carving knife * Gnomish army knife * 10 feet of thin rope or line Haversack * Kerchief * Cordage * Spare flint and steel * Leather gloves Pack * Canvas or oilcloth tarp * Large foldable bag * Large wool blanket * Small wool blanket * Hunter’s axe * Thin rope * Bow saw * Pot * Skillet * 3 candles and 6 sticks of fatwood * Rope and cord * Repair kits * Whetstone The Five C's You can organize your essentials based on the Five Cs of Survivability. These items are the hardest to reproduce (but not impossible!) from natural material, take the most amount of skill to reproduce, and control conditions that directly affect body core temperature. These items, along with your knowledge of the landscape and your survival know-how, make it easy to pack a light kit: Cutting Tools - for manufacturing needed items and processing food. Cover Elements - for protection from the elements. Combustion Devices - for creating fires, making medicines, and providing warmth. Containers - for water, food, and storage. Cordages - for bindings and lashings. These five essential categories will be the core of what you pack and carry. You can then add things for first aid, navigation, and repair to make your stay in the wilderness a little easier. However, be careful! Don’t carry so much as to make it cumbersome. Be careful to choose the right elements for your kit and ensure that these items are of a good quality to last you some time. Additionally, make sure that they can perform many needed tasks well. Tools Belt Knife A belt knife is one of the most important tools a woodsman can own. Because of this, you should always keep this tool directly attached to you to keep it from becoming lost. With a belt knife, you can recreate all other items you need in an emergency. What’s the perfect knife? Let’s examine the qualities of a knife that will be most useful to you! A blade that is too small will make it difficult to process firewood, especially if you don’t have an axe or one isn’t available. A blade that’s too big will make finer cuts and carving tasks more difficult. The happy medium is about 4 ½ - 6 inches in length. Any knife you carry as a belt knife should be of full tang design. This means the entire knife is one piece of metal with the handles attached to the outside. This is very important because knives are used so often and take a lot of abuse! Gnomish Army Knife A Gnomish Army Knife is a known as a multi-tool, developed and engineered by gnomes. These contraptions are handy and multi-functional - some not only have different types of knives, but tools for skinning, clippers for collecting herbs, and a pick for terraforming. If you can afford one of these tools, they are very compact and useful to have. Saws As with knives, there are a variety of saws, and they have many important uses. They are lightweight, compact, and are safer than swinging an axe. Sometimes, they are even more precise! Make sure to always keep the blades of your saw covered when not using them. Safety is important, and so is proper saw care! Keep it oiled with the same lubricants you use for your knife and other metal tools. Axes There are many types of axes, handles, and heads available. What you need to consider as a woodsman (or woman!) is what needs your axe must fulfill, what types of wood are found in your area, and how much weight you can carry. The bigger the age, the safer it is to handle. It takes less inertia to remove material and requires a lighter, more controlled swing. A belt axe, also known as a hatchet, is a staple to any hunter or outdoorsman! Always choose a wooden handle so that you can replace it in an emergency. Size, weight, and shape are matters of personal preference. Any axe or hatchet with a handle of less than 16 inches and a head less than 2 pounds can be hung on a belt without becoming overly cumbersome. If you want to carry a bigger axe, make sure that it can do the work required of it around camp on the trail. For example, if you need chop down larger trees, you’ll want a good felling axe. For tasks smaller than that, a hunter’s axe can be very useful and is a great all-around axe. Rope, Cordage, and Knots You must carry cordage as one of the main elements of your kit because of its usefulness in creating other items. Cordage is useful for making fire, lashings, and bindings and is essential in trapping, fishing, and many other things! Making Cordage While you can make cordage from natural material, it takes a lot of time. To make a natural cord, you must have the right materials. They must be fairly strong, depending on its use, and it must be available during all seasons. To make a single cord from natural material of passable strength, you only need to look for vines or the roots of spruce trees! It is best to test materials in your area before you need them by harvesting a section and attempting to tie an overhand knot in the cord. If doing this breaks the cord, it probably won’t be viable for some tasks. But if you can make three or four wraps around your finger and it does not split or break, it may be useful for other applications. Here’s how to make one type of two-ply cordage that can be used in many ways! The best material to find will be the inner bark of a hickory or poplar tree. Some other options are nettle and dogbane. Recently fallen trees are the least desirable cordage material but are the easiest to harvest. 1.) Pry the edge of this bark with your knife and peel it off; it should come off in long strips, depending on the tree. 2.) Remove the outer bark to get to the inner bark fibers. 3.) Now, turn these bark fibers into smaller strands, then group the strands to obtain the desired diameter of the cord. 4.) Separate the strands into two separate bundles. 5.) Hold both bundles at the same time but keep them separate. Then twist them one at a time in the same direction. 6.) After this, pinch both bundles in the opposite direction. 7.) Repeat until finished. It is a good idea to start with bundles of two different lengths so you can splice another bundle into the cord to add length. Do this only one side at a time, never at the same time! When you reach approximately 1 inch from the end of the shortest bundle, add another bundle on that side, twisting it and making it one bundle. Continue to reverse wrap until the splice is in the cord! Lashings, Bindings, and Toggles Lashings Lashings are used to construct objects that will be under some load or are meant to support something else. Tripods, pack frames, camp furniture, and A-frame shelters support all require lashings.Shear or straight lashings are used when two objects are tied side by side and then separate, causing the lashing to tighten. A diagonal lash is used with sticks that cross each other while being lashed - like the top of a pack frame. Bindings Bindings are used to keep something from coming apart. For example, you use a binding to keep the end of a rope fraying. You also use a binding to haft something, such as an arrow point to a shaft. Sometimes bindings are used with adhesives and sometimes it’s not, depending on the application. Toggles A toggle is very useful for almost any application - from cooking to trapping, packing to carrying gear. A toggle is a simple wood stick connected to a line by a knot. This can then be used as a simple attachment point and is easily moved or removed. Tips and Tricks for Rope and Cordage • Toggles in a rope tied with a lark’s head knot and a jam knot are great for hanging gear! • To make rawhide cordage, insert your knife into a section of a stump and thinly slice the hide in a circular fashion. This will give you much longer single cords than trying to cut along the length of hide. • Some ropes, depending on material, will melt if burned. You can make an emergency adhesive or patch small holes in containers with this. • Do not store cordage wet. This will cause mildew and break down the fibers. Sheltering When planning for shelter, a woodsman needs to consider long-term and short-term options. You may intend to build a permanent base camp and shelter, but still might need to travel for a night or two to hunt, trap, or fish. Because of this, your sheltering kit should include a system that takes you easily from permanent shelter to the woods with supplies that can be used in either situation or location. The base of this kit includes: • Waterproof Tarp • Wool Blanket • Sleeve of Canvas The Three W's Wind The direction and intensity of wind have an impact on safely keeping a fire going and on the ability to heat your shelter. Middle-ground areas where wind is present but not too strong are ideal. Water Locating your camp nearby areas such as creek beds provide a steady source of water. Wood Building fires, shelters, and other resources require a lot of wood. A great source of firewood can come from large fallen trees, and trees can provide a steady supply of fatwood. Establishing a Base Camp Setting up a base camp allows you to save yourself from having to carry all your supplies on your back all the time. Building a permanent shelter is a large task, and probably will take a few days of work - longer if you don’t have help. With that in mind, the first thing to do when you arrive at where you intend to create your base camp is to build a temporary shelter. Just remember to finish your permanent shelter before the weather demands one. For a permanent shelter, you can build a larger version of your temporary base camp from natural materials, or you can pack a larger canvas shelter in your kit. Whatever the case, it should have at least three sides for protection from the weather. A raised bed is a must in colder weather, but a hammock is usually enough in fair weather. Permanent Shelter Options The best type of permanent shelter will depend on the environment, season, resources, available equipment, and the skill level of the woodsman. There are a few simple designs that can be utilized; anything too difficult or complicated to build is likely to be left unfinished! Caves and Rock Houses Just like animals, a woodsman can construct his own shelter by adopting existing elements in nature. These caves and stone shelters endure in nature, though it does take some effort to make them comfortable. There are some downsides to caves, which are worth noting. If you’re in an area with high humidity of a lot annual rainfall, caves are not the best choice. A wet cave is a miserable place to sleep, and the moisture can create dangerous bacteria growth, mold, weak stone integrity, and a dampness that will leave you almost perpetually cold! A cave might also be home to insects or other mammals. Raised Platform Shelters A raised platform shelter is constructed by attacking wood pieces with lashings and cross members to create a platform. Just remember: the more complex the shelter, the more resources and tools you’ll need! The raised platform should be about 3’-5’ above the ground - but this will depend on factors such as wildlife, resources, and environment. Make the platform about 2’ wider than the inside dimension of the shelter you plan to put on top of it and at least 6’ longer to leave room for open work areas. Log Cabins Building a small cabin with a single pitched roof is simple from a design perspective. It is, however, very labor-intensive and requires a lot of timber. An 8’ x 10’ cabin is sufficient for a single person, with anything larger being difficult to heat. Camp Amenities No matter how big your base came is, or what purpose it may serve, these are a few amenities to include for comfort and convenience. Lighting You need to think about lighting sources to use when your fire dies down or before your fire is built. Candles work the best, proving light and having an open flame to aid in an emergency or late-night fire starting. The beeswax can also be melted and used for other purposes - such as rubbing it on your tools to prevent rusting! A simple lantern can be made from empty cans to protect the candle from going out in the wind. You can also use fat from animals to make oil lamp. And concave container can make an easy lamp. All you need is a wick, which can be made from cotton rope or natural cordage. You can also use a ball of cattail fluff or corded cedar bark for a quick, temporary wick. To make candles, you dip the wick of natural cord in a pan of melted tallow, then let it cool before dipping it again. The thickness increases each time you dip into the tallow and allow the layers to cool. The difference between tallow and lard is tallow will harden at room temperature while lard will stay soft. Torches can be made by dipping dead plant tops into fat and letting them dry. Soap Many plants have natural saponins, which are created when making soaps. This substance occurs naturally in many plants and creates a nice lather to be used as a soap. Bracken ferns and yuccas are two examples of plants that are high in saponins. Latrine For short-term outings, it’s easy enough to walk away from camp and dig a small hole for a latrine. For longer-term outings, a pit latrine will most likely be necessary. It should be a comfortable distance from camp but well away from any groundwater source. A good practice is to add ashes from the campfire into the pit latrine daily. This will cover the smell, break down the waste material, and detract flies. When the pit is within a foot from the top, cover it with debris and dig a new pit in a different location. Lines Ridge lines are the best place to hang lanterns, keep clothing off the ground, or to hold a bag. Drying lines should always be used to ensure you have a place to air bedding material and clothing during the day or when wet. A Place to Sleep A simple canvas and a couple of wool blankets can add as much as 20 pounds to your kit, but a good night’s sleep of at least 6 hours is one of the most important aspects of long-term comfort and survival. The following items are a good basis for a sleep system that will be effective in either a temporary or permanent shelter: • Wool blanket • Materials for a raised bed • Canvas • Large needle Building a Raised Bed A raised bed is necessary to combat ground temperature when sleeping. You can make a simple mattress with a canvas or wool blanket. First fold your canvas widthwise; it’s important that your bed be wide enough for you to roll over without falling. Thread your needle and whip-stitch the ends of your canvas on two sides. Next stuff your bed with leaves and grass. Stuff the bed and compress the material to make room for more, and keep stuffing and compressing until you have about 4” of compressed insulation. Then, stitch the last side up! Animal Companions Introduction Rangers may befriend an animal to keep as a companion as they can offer increased security, aid in hunting and scouting, and act as a companion when the Ranger would otherwise be alone in the wilds. This chapter of the Westridge Ranger Handbook will review which animals may be taken as companions by the Ranger Order of Westridge. Choosing an Animal Companion Although any animal of the wild can become a trusted companion under the right circumstances, the first regiment authorizes only certain species to accompany the soldiers of the Stormwind Army. All companions to be used during military activities must be endorsed by the Ranger-Lord and their knights and be approved by the Lord-Marshal. Below is a list of authorized species and known breeds as well as a list of prohibited animals. Authorized Animals While there are any number of species within the animal kingdom, only certain types and families are allowed for use within the Order. Below are the authorized animals that can be utilized by a Ranger. Felines Bobcat The bobcat is found throughout the mountains and woods of the Eastern Kingdoms. It is very solitary, nocturnal, and an excellent stalker and hider. Though numerous, bobcats often escape detection and are even thought to be extinct in places where they still thrive. They hardly ever leave their tracks on well-worn trails, preferring to jump over the trails instead. The bobcat's primary food is rabbits and rodents, though it eats whatever it can find. It loves rough, brush areas with plenty of cover but can also be found in rocky, sandy, and semi-arid areas. The best time to see bobcats is morning and evening. Canines Grey Wolf The wolves of Elwynn Forest feed on deer and other small mammals and birds. In the wild, they travel in packs up to twelve. It is very difficult for an outsider to become accepted into a pack and almost impossible for a lone wolf to establish a territory. Only the dominant male and female mate and the size of the litter is controlled by the availability of food. The best places to find and observe wolves are near large concentrations of deer. There the pack stakes its claim, periodically culling the sick and weak animals and keeping the heads strong. Most wolves go out of their way to avoid people but may attack when feeling threatened. Red Fox The fox lives throughout most of the Eastern Kingdoms, preferring farmland and treeline areas to heavy brush or thick forests. When hunting, it prefers to bound rather than hop and show direct register when walking - the only member of the dog family to do so. The fox is primarily nocturnal but can be seen during the day in isolated areas away from people. Its food, in order of importance, includes rodents, rabbits, and ground birds. It sometimes catches excess foods. It hunts very efficiently and is just as deliberate about its movements. Foxes stalk like cats and pounce on their prey in a single bound. Mastiff The Mastiff is a relatively large, stocky dog with a massive, wrinkled head. The muzzle is short, wide, powerful and thick, with a pronounced stop. The coat is short and soft with loose-fitting skin with several variations of shades - from fawn to mahogany to black. The mastiff has a good and calm temperament and is extremely loyal, patient, and devoted to his family and master. Despite its fearsome appearance, the Mastiff is gentle with children - however, this is a powerful breed and is not suitable for an inexperienced dog owner. Aves The keeping of a bird as a companion is widely regarded for their ability to deliver messages and for their scouting capabilities. A bird can perform aerial reconnaissance silently and largely unnoticed and signal the direction of danger upon its return. Among the allowed aves are falcons, hawks, owls, and ravens. It should be noted that carrion birds (e.g. condors, vultures, buzzards) will not be allowed for use as an animal companion. Receiving Authorization A Ranger must receive authorization for an animal companion from the Ranger Lord or any of their Ranger Knights. Wild-born animals must be tamed, properly trained, and also be endorsed by the Ranger-Lord. Ranger Communication Introduction This chapter of the Westridge Ranger Handbook focuses on the common communications systems used by the Rangers of Westridge while in the field. Each system has its own specific use and executions, and where one might be appropriate during a certain situation, it may not be in another. In order to best decide the means of information exchange, it is important to discuss all options with fellow rangers before a mission, if possible. The following guide will cover basic information pertaining to these systems and serves as an introduction to more formalized, hands-on training. Trail Markers When traveling through the wilderness alone or with others, there often strikes the need to lay warnings and instructions to your fellow rangers who may follow behind you. This exchange of information is commonly passed on through the use of "markers." In the case of the Ranger Order of Westridge, these markers are part of a system utilizing shapes, symbols, and man-made 'landmarks' constructed from natural materials found within the ranger's immediate area. This guide compiles both sketches and information regarding the aforementioned markers. It should be kept in consideration that this list is not wholly comprehensive of every available marker a ranger might see during their trek. In practice, markers may be parts or a combination of those shown in the guide. It is up to the individual ranger to decipher these kinds of markers with the knowledge of those explained here. When leaving your own markers, be sure to keep them as simple as possible while also being able to convey the necessary messages. Your markers should be discreet enough, if possible, to blend into the environment when searched by an eye untrained to our methods. Also keep in consideration how permanent you need your marker to be. Those made with rock formations will last longer than one made of loose twigs, for example. Common Markers and Meanings Below are the most common markers a ranger might experience while in the wild or on the trek. Again, the composition of these markers may include or exclude certain elements shown below. Use your best discretion in determining the meaning of these markers. They may have been placed in a hurry or while in immediate danger. It is still a good rule of thumb, however, for any ranger leaving a mark to make it as recognizable as possible. In addition to the marker shapes and symbols, there will be several examples of possible set-ups. Trail Turn Description and Meaning: A simple arrow structure pointed in a specific direction. This will indicate a trail or a trail's turn in that direction. These markers are generally placed when a trail is not immediately obvious, as is sometimes the case when tracking enemy targets or locations. Set-up Examples: Twigs placed in the above arrow structure, a branch (or several placed together) with the leaves forming an arrow direction. Three rocks of descending sizes placed in a line, with the smallest rock indicating the 'tip' of the arrow and thus the direction. Sheaves of long grass bundled in an arrow shape. Danger Description and Meaning: A simple cross or "X" structure. This will indicate danger in the immediate area or if placed with an arrow, the direction in which there is a substantial danger. It is usually inadvisable to continue through or in the direction of the danger unless the source of such danger has been established beforehand. Note that this marker alone specifies a general danger. Those more specific should be accompanied by additional defining markers, if possible. Set-up Examples: Crossed sticks or branches. Sheaves of grass tied in a cross shape. Rocks forming a cross shape. Crossed 'scrapes' on the bark of a tree or scuffed in the dirt. Traps Ahead Description and Meaning: A circle with a cross shape, one leg extended into an arrow structure. The shape indicates a trap laid by a Westridge Ranger in the direction the arrow points. These traps are within 500 ft of the marker and should be set up with such distance in mind. Set-up Examples: Rock over crossed branches, one made into an arrow shape. Small rock formation in the above shape. Shallow scrapes in bark made in a cross formation with an arrow Base Camp Description and Meaning: Two circles, one inside the next. This symbol indicates a ranger's base camp is nearby. Please be considerate of individual camps and approach with both caution and appropriate procedure. Remember to hail your fellow rangers upon approach so as not to invoke any unnecessary concern or suspicion! Set-up Examples: A round rock with a circle drawn around it. Two stacked rocks, smaller on top of the larger. Two drawn circles on the ground or edged in bark or other material. Obstacles Description and Meaning: Two horizontal, parallel lines. In the above example, an arrow indicates that it is safe to continue over, through, or across the obstacle. The arrow may be replaced or accompanied by other symbols, such as that for "danger" which would inform any ranger to avoid or take great care in dealing with the obstacle. Set-up Examples: Two branches or twigs set in a parallel shape with defining symbols created as necessary and with available material. Two parallel scrapes in bark or in dirt. Two long, nearly identical rocks placed in parallel to each other. Hand Signals When rangers are within line of sight of each other, they will most often communicate through a system of hand signals. Below are examples of the twenty most common hand signals used between ranger, but it is by no means an exhaustive guide. Ranger-apprentices will be expected to have mastered the listed signals and upon entering the order will be trained further with additional and more complex signs. Animal Calls In the wild, birds communicate through pitched whistles, songs, and chips and other animals do the same through grunts, growls, and other auditory exchanges. Rangers will often mimic these sounds as a means of communication among themselves in order to identify each other, call orders, or issue warnings at a distance. In order to differentiate between animal-sourced calls and ranger-mimics, one would either combine calls or make subtle changes to the call or call combination. This skill is essential for all rangers to master and can only be taught through extensive experience and rigorous practice. Before missions, the leading ranger will inform the participating group of which calls will be used and their meanings. The combination of calls and type of calls are subject to change between each mission and leading Ranger. Ranger Tactics Introduction Whether in the field with the Royal Army or conducting business for the Ranger Order, both strategy and tactics are key to mission success. The following chapter of the Westridge Ranger Handbook will cover the basic techniques and ideologies necessary for combat and stealth-related situations for a Ranger or group of rangers. Small Unit Tactics Rangers make use of the skill sets they bring to the First Regiment in the form of a small unit; able to conduct flexible missions that would otherwise be impossible in a deployment of a full regiment of troops. Various tactics utilize the tools available to the rangers as well as the condensed manner in which they are deployed in. Rangers should be familiar with the standard formations of the Regiment that are taught during their tenure as a scout or archer. Scouting A single ranger or a group of no more than two are sent ahead of the unit in order to discern what is ahead of them. This is used when the unit is uncertain of the situation ahead and cannot jeopardize losing the entire unit if the worst were to happen. Overwatch Rangers that are in overwatch would provide observation, reconnaissance, and covering fire with their longbows while the rest of the rangers approach an objective or area. Combined Fire A tactic where the unit leader would assign specific targets to each ranger in the unit. Then on a simple countdown or signal, the entire unit would unleash their arrows at their target and effectively eliminating all threats at the same time. This tactic would be used if multiple enemies were present nearby and needed to be taken out without alerting more. Shoot and Scoot This tactic has the rangers moving to a different position every time they shoot their bows. It will enable enemies to be unable to locate which direction the projectiles are coming from, sowing confusion and chaos. Usually, this tactic is implemented during an ambush in a location where a wide area is deemed clear so that each ranger has more freedom to choose where to relocate. Fire and Maneuver The ranger unit is split into two groups. One would remain in a fortified position where they are able to fire arrows upon the enemy, while the other group would be able to move to a new location. This tactic is usually implemented when you need the rangers placed into specific positions while under attack. Bounding Overwatch Similar to Fire and Maneuver, this small unit tactic involves rangers moving from one position to the next while providing arrow fire to pin down the opponents. The unit will be split such that one group would be providing overwatch by raining arrows down on enemy positions in order to keep their heads down while the other group runs to the new position. Upon reaching the new position, that group will now provide overwatch as the second group runs to their next position. The unit will continue moving forward, rotating roles until both groups reach their desired location. This tactic is used when the entire ranger squad needs to relocate from their current position while under attack. This is also known as "leapfrogging." Peeling In the event that a retreat is necessary, peeling is incurred which involves one or several rangers shooting back at the enemy while the others run. Once a ranger or rangers are peeled they should provide their own covering fire to the men and women who peeled for them. This would continue until the rangers are out of the hostile area. Movement and Camouflage As a Ranger, many of your greatest discoveries will be made while standing still. However, one cannot and should not remain sedentary all the time. The following will cover ways to move through the woods or your environment without frightening animals or alerting enemies. By combining careful movement with natural camouflage, a ranger can become practically invisible. Stealth Approaching your enemies or target undetected is the key aspect here. Enemies with no knowledge of your presence are extremely vulnerable and open up a lot more variety of options available to a Ranger in order to accomplish the mission. You must be able to use whatever you have at your disposal to remain unseen so that you may conduct the business of your operation with the maximum amount of discretion. Optimally, rangers would have minimal extra gear on them, as we would rely on our survival skills in order to sustain ourselves if in the field for long periods of time. Any additional gear that must be brought should be kept to a minimum. Too much extra items run the risk of them making too much noise, thus compromising the mission. Lighting An often overlooked aspect of the environment, specific shades of light or lack thereof can make or break a stealth operation. Under the most desired conditions, most of the ranger missions would be conducted at night when darkness can be used to their advantage. However, when it is not possible to wait for nightfall, a ranger must improvise the use of lighting, both natural and created. Oftentimes, when there is plenty of foliage or structures, their shadows can be used to seek cover. One can use the darker areas to further mask their approach. The bright sunlight can also be used, as the glare from the intense light can prevent enemies from having visualization of a certain area. Body Camouflage Charcoal is excellent for camouflaging exposed body parts. Blotch it on to create a dappled effect, but don't cover yourself entirely with it. Use it on the bony areas of the face, but don't rub it in dark around the eyes or you'll accentuate their whiteness. A good rule is to darken the ridges and leave the hollows of your eyes. Sprigs of pine needles and leaves can camouflage hair and beard. Small branches can also be used to camouflage clothing by sticking them in belts or buttonholes, letting them hang naturally. Remember that a little camouflage goes a long way; you don't have to cover everything. De-scenting Animals have an excellent sense of smell, so camouflaging you scent before stalking or observing animals at close range is ideal. Before a hunt, avoid strong-smelling foods and if possible, take sweat bath. A quick way of getting the same effect is to bathe with soap made from pine tar or peppermint. Rub your clothes and the exposed parts of your body with pine needles or any aromatic herb. Be sure that the plant you use also grows naturally in the area you are going to stalk or the animals may get suspicious and move away. Another easy method for de-scenting the body is to sit front of a campfire for fifteen or twenty minutes. Animals are rarely alarmed by the smell of smoke. Hiding One of the best ways to observe is to find a hiding place and wait. Regardless of familiarity with the terrain, walk quietly and slowly within sight of the area. Use splatter vision and focused hearing to determine information around you and to scan the area at a distance in order to find a spot to hide. Approach your hiding spot from downwind and in a stalk, never walking or running. Crouch low and be indefinitely patient. Look and listen. The hide itself should offer enough cover to protect and camouflage most of your body but allow you to see through. Enter the hide with as little disturbance as possible. Decide what position you want to take, then use your best stalking techniques to get into it. If you plan to be in a hide for a long time, lie flat or choose a comfortable sitting position. Generally, the lower the better. Carefully arrange brush and sprinkle a few leaves or needles to on your clothing to break up your outline. Then wait. Attune yourself to the flow of your environment and relax so that you will be alert to any signals. Ranger Equipment Introduction This chapter of the Westridge Ranger Handbook outlines the arms and armor wielded by the Rangers of Westridge. In order to be effective in combat and in the field, preparedness is key. A Ranger always dresses and arms himself in a way that will maximize his abilities. This readiness includes the uniforms by which a Ranger is commonly recognized and his range of deadly weapons and equipment. Armor Rangers of Westridge value the flexibility and durability of Elwynn's leathers, which offer light to moderate amounts of protection without impeding range of motion. The most defining and recognizable feature of a ranger's outfit is the green and brown hooded cloak awarded to each ranger upon their initiation into the Order. Pathfinder Ranger Pathfinder Rangers utilize rugged armor, preferring to fortify their defense with leather and, at times, plate. These rangers typically use the recurve bow as their primary weapon and strike at range unless the situation requires otherwise. The amount of leather and plate used makes them slightly less effective at melee range compared to their Infiltrator counterparts, and they lean towards the recurve bow as their weapon of choice. Infiltrator Ranger Compared to Pathfinders, an Infiltrator Ranger wears a lighter armor set of leathers and cloth. They are able to exercise a greater range of motion and typically prefer the Ranger Shortblades as their primary weapon. Their defense comes by having a quick and deadly offense, and they tend to strike most effectively at melee distance. Ranger Apprentice The Ranger Apprentice (or Scout) uniform is comprised of brown dyed leathers and cloths. Its neutral coloring allows for improved stealth, though it is often required that the Scout or Apprentice first shed his or her Stormwind blue tabard and cloak prior to scouting missions. The mix of materials gives its user both moderate protection and range of movement. Weapons Rangers often use a spread of different weapons depending on the scope of their mission and personal preferences. A Ranger is always prepared for any situation, and below are some of the common weapons used and their purposes. Recurve Bow The recurve bow is one of the primary weapons of the Ranger Order of Westridge, though Ranger-Apprentices use simpler bows while in training. Rangers are trained to shoot and hit their targets from almost any distance and elevation and are known for their keen accuracy in doing so. Recurve bows are typically wooden bows ranging sixty to a hundred inches tall, composed of a shaft of Elwynn yew that bends away from the wielder at its ends. Ranger's Shortblade The Ranger's Shortblade is a broad-bladed knife, razor-sharp on one side and thick and heavy on the other. This blade provides lethal capabilities in close quarters or when the use of a bow proves ineffective. Though it is balanced for throwing, it can be used to block a sword strike and is both a functional and flexible weapon. The Ranger's Shortblade is forged from steel that was carefully mined and prospected from the Wanduke mines in Westridge. Throwing Knife The throwing knife is a short blade with a thick, heavy grip, often kept in a double scabbard with a Ranger's Shortblade or housed elsewhere within quick reach. It is narrow at the hilt and tapers out to form a broad blade with the weight concentrated at the tip. Purposed for throwing, the extra width at the tip allows for a balance of weight that helps drive the knife into its target. Hatchet The hatchet (or hand axe) is a multi-purpose tool and weapon used in place of or in conjunction with a Ranger's Shortblade. Like the Ranger's Shortblade, it is often carried in the event of close quarter combat or when bow combat is ineffective or impossible. Unlike the Ranger's Shortblade, the hatchet can also be used for other tasks (e.g. to chop wood, as a hammer) and is often carried by Rangers for this reason. Arrows As the recurve bow is the primary weapon of all Rangers, arrows are carried as ammunition. The variety of arrows (and arrowheads) carried often differ between individuals, as each type has a separate purpose. The type of arrows carried may depend on the mission or the individual Ranger. Standard Arrows Rangers often use a variety of arrows with differently shaped arrowheads, each serving a separate purpose from the other. For example, the ranger's bodkin arrowhead is constructed of hardened metal in a simple square-spiked shape, used to pierce through plate armor, while the broadhead arrowheads are often used against lightly armored men or horses. Specialty Arrows The Rangers also utilize different specialty arrows, which are far more expensive and are carried in fewer quantities than standard arrows. Among these special arrows are incendiary arrows, which are primarily used to set fire to structures and oils traps, while poison-tipped arrows are dipped in poisons to inflict additional damage and injury over time. Several types of magic imbued arrows exist, crafted by the mages of Sarceline, and are activated via incantation before being fired. Category:Ranger Order of Mirwood Category:Documents Category:Reconnaissance Corps